Category Archives: nova scotia

Downtown Halifax on Canvas

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This year, I was happy to be invited back to blog about Halifax for the Downtown Halifax Business Commission. Like last year, I was handed a pre-loaded $100 Visa card with three basic conditions; spend the money in downtown Halifax, blog about the experience and keep it legal (love saying that).

There was one other catch – to try something new.

Halifax on Canvas 018I got to thinking came up with the idea of asking kids to paint Halifax by asking a simple question: “What is Halifax?” Because kids see things differently than adults.

With Visa card in hand, I recruited my creative friend to join me at DeSerres to stock up on supplies. After spending $100.40 we walked over to Grand Parade to meet the rest of the kids and parents.

On the last official weekend of summer it wasn’t long before brushes were flying and creative juices were flowing as pigeons and tour groups looked curiously on.

Halifax on Canvas 023 It took a few minutes for the kids to think about what they wanted to paint. They were inspired by such things as:
A Canadian flag on a building nearby.
A street sign.
A boat in the harbour.
The ship mast in Grand Parade.

It was fun to watch their creations take shape.

Here were six kids in the heart of downtown Halifax painting their city. Today they paint it, tomorrow they’ll shape it – the future lies with them.

The Artists Wouldn’t it be interesting to invite the same kids back in 20 years to paint Halifax with their answer to the same question again?

See more pictures from Downtown Halifax on Canvas via Flickr
Thank you Wyatt, Dylan, Lindsay, Emily, Mia, Lauren and Downtown Halifax Business Commission for getting my creative juices flowing again.

Wolfville Farmers’ Market

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Wolfville Farmers MarketOn a grey Saturday morning, with travel mugs perched in their cup holders, my friend Kristen of “with bite” drove highway 101 from Halifax to Wolfville. Valley girls, for the day.

Before passing by Domaine de Grand Pré and the beautiful Victorian homes just outside Wolfville, we made a pit stop at Just Us! Coffee Roasters for a re-fill. This coffee is my fav and there is always a bag in my cupboard.

The Wolfville Farmers’ Market is pretty easy to find. Just follow the smells, the live music or anybody carrying canvas shopping bags.

Wolfville Farmers MarketThis is a market where fresh produce doesn’t have to travel far. It is, after all, the Annapolis Valley, where those apples were picked in an orchard just down the road.

Last week, the Info Booth’s featured item of the week was fennel. Fennel was just starting it’s first week in season and samples of fresh fennel vichyssoise were available to taste. You could pick up a copy of fennel recipes with an ingredient checklist of items available right there at the market. Clever thinking.

Wolfville Farmers MarketAfter chowing down in one of the yummy cookies pictured above, Kristen and I watched Chef Michael Howell prepare a fabulous drink called Raspberry Lime Rickey (lime simple syrup, raspberry puree and soda water). You see, raspberries were also in season and a u-pick had recently opened nearby.

I was on a quest to find lavender jelly (August 2008 blog post) since I was down to my last teaspoon but was told the ladies weren’t there that week. Kristen started her Christmas shopping at a jewelery booth.

Next, it was time for these two valley girls to find a strawberry u-pick. That blog post is coming up next.

For more information:
* Wolfville Farmers’ Market
* Find them on Facebook
* See more Farmers Market photos on The Right Coast NS’ Flickr page

About Wolfville:
Wolfville is the first fair trade town in Canada. The town is separated from the Minas Basin (part of the Bay of Fundy) by agricultural dykes which were built by Acadians in the 17th century. Wolfville Harbour is the smallest harbour in the world. It’s the home of Acadia University. Go Axemen! (That was tough for me to type because I went to St. F.X.)

BC Brian’s visit to Halifax

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BC Brian 051In my last blog post, I asked for your advice on how to plan a 45 hour visit for a friend visiting Halifax for the first time.

I asked, you answered. On Facebook, on Twitter, by email and hollering over my cubicle. A page full of your suggestions were printed, folded and tucked in my bag for BC Brian and I to regularly check to make sure nothing was overlooked.

A few hours after BC Brian’s arrival, it was time to hit the Halifax waterfront. We were dropped off at the Halifax Town Clock where BC Brian asked if it was a re-constructed lighthouse. This self proclaimed “arrogant westerner” was in for a lesson.

After a stroll along the waterfront boardwalk, being peppered with questions (that sometimes stumped me), we ended up on the patio at the Old Triangle Irish Alehouse. As the evening went on, we continued down the boardwalk to Garrison Brewery where we sampled Jalapeno ale and award-winning Imperial I.P.A. beer. Here we met cruise ship passengers Kelly and Todd of Los Angeles who were staying an extra day due to bad weather elsewhere.

Peggy's CoveThe next morning, after breakfast at Cora’s, with the threat of rain showers, BC Brian and I were Peggy’s Cove bound. The windy road leading to this classic fishing village just 30 minutes outside Halifax was no stranger to tour buses. Of course, no visit to Peggy’s Cove is complete without a visit to the Swiss Air memorial site.

By now, the rain had started and we made a bee line to Pier 21, Canada’s Immigration Museum. Having the privilege of working there for 4 years, BC Brian was treated to personalized tour through the exhibits and film, “Oceans of Hope”.

BC Brian 027The clock was ticking and our stomachs were rumbling so the next stop was John’s Lunch in Dartmouth. So many of you suggested this place for making the best fish and chips in town and for good reason. It was really good. Melt in your mouth fish and buttery clams good. All topped off with being treated like family in this 1969 style diner. The friendly service gave no need for dessert, they were sweet enough.

BC Brian 035After stuffing ourselves and taking a few snaps of Halifax from the Dartmouth side, we headed back over the Macdonald Bridge.

While seafood was on the brain, I quickly realized that one simply CANNOT come to Nova Scotia and not have lobster and a good feed of mussels. Plus, they were on “the list”. I have to admit, it was my very first time cooking live lobster without parental supervision. Hoping BC Brian would not notice, I did the best thing I could think of… offer him a Keith’s. You see, that was on the list too.

What wasn’t on the list was convincing BC Brian to stay another day. You see, all of you suggested such great things and 45 hours simply wasn’t enough time to enjoy them all. Thankfully, BC Brian agreed and changed his flight.

This bonus day was BC Brian’s self-exploration day and he made good of it. Visiting the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, Rum Runners Rum Cake Factory, Brewery Market and having lunch at the Lower Deck “across from the big cow“.

BC Brian 036That evening, after lobster risotto, BC Brian, my husband and I went back to the Old Triangle Irish Alehouse to watch McGinty. These songs and others were played (click to listen):
Barrett’s Privateers,
Rollin’ Down to Old Maui,
Nancy Whisky

That evening at the Triangle, BC Brian just couldn’t stop smiling. My highlight of the evening was when BC Brian turned to me and said, “this is just like the Nova Scotia tourism commercials!”

I wish I could tell you at this point that everything on “the list” was crossed off. In fact, we got about half way through. I figure that you have to leave some things to explore next time. BC Brian tells me that he’s hoping that there will be a next time, with his wife in tow. I don’t think he’ll have too much trouble convincing her, after all, he’s our newest tourism ambassador.

So my friends, THANK YOU for your suggestions. Also thanks to Tourism Nova Scotia who shouted out to their followers and likers on Twitter and Facebook.

Most of all, thank you BC Brian for visiting Nova Scotia.

See more pictures from BC Brian’s visit on Flickr.

Help me plan BC Brian’s 45 hour visit to Halifax

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Ferry Tales, HalifaxA few weeks ago I got a phone call from my friend “BC Brian” announcing that he’s visiting me in Halifax. Hailing from northwestern British Columbia, this is his first trip to the east coast.

After looking at the calendar, I realized that I have 45 hours to give BC Brian a favourable impression of Halifax.

This is where I’m asking for your advice, your thoughts… your do’s and don’t’s.

Here are the deets: BC Brian arrives next Wednesday at 1 p.m. and leaves Friday at 10 a.m. (for Montreal). He’s staying at our house during his brisk 45 hour visit.

Let’s factor in the 4 hour time difference.

So what would you do if you were playing tour guide?

BTW, I did ask BC Brian what he’d like to do and I haven’t heard from him yet so I am taking it upon myself to ask you. Just like the Canadian Tourism Commission’s “Locals know” campaign.

Here’s BC Brian’s persona (not his actual photo):

– Retired
– Male
– City Councilor
– loves nature, red wine and beer

Send me your ideas, I can’t wait to hear from you:

Email: maria.mcgowan@gmail.com
Twitter: therightcoastns
Facebook: http://bit.ly/TRCFacebook

I’ll let you know how the 44 hours came and went.

Thanks!
Maria

Cape George Lighthouse

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Cape George LighthouseIf you were on a boat near Cape George, Nova Scotia in the mid 1800’s, you couldn’t help but notice the lighthouse. And, if you did, you’d be in a bit of trouble!

In 1861, the first of three lighthouses were built to guide fishing boats around Cape George Point. This first lighthouse was powered with a ten foot diameter iron lantern, with eight sides and cut glass prisms that demanded 120 gallons of oil each year. Glass prisms from the second lighthouse where unique and rare in cut and are on display at the Bluefin Tuna Interpretation Centre, a few minutes down the road at Ballantyne’s Cove wharf.

Cape George waterOver 107 years there were four lightkeepers. From the Condon family (1861) to Alex MacEachern (whose annual salary was $450), Charles Falkenham and finally William Clark (1968), they kept the lighthouse lit 24/7. Today, the lighthouse is automated and unmanned. The grounds are kept well by volunteers and there are a lot of picnic tables to eat your lunch, enjoy the view and snap pictures of St. George’s Bay, PEI and Cape Breton. Interpretive panels are on site to learn more about the history of the area.

To get there, take route 337 which follows the shoreline through small fishing communities overlooking the Northumberland Strait. It’s a beautiful drive.

Area information:

Arisaig: Part of the Mini Cabot Trail

Cape George Lighthouse

The Cape George Hiking Trail offers 33 kilometers of connected loops and linear sections.

Cape to Cape Trail Nova Scotia’s first long distance footpath traveling over 400 kilometers, all the way from Cape Chignecto in Cumberland County to Cape George in Antigonish County. It’s under construction.

Arisaig: Part of The Mini Cabot Trail

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ArisaigOn a warm spring day, my sister and I took a mini road trip to the “Mini Cabot Trail”. Wouldn’t it be cool if we were driving a mini?

The windy road comes to Arisaig (Àrasaig in Gaelic), a small village in along the Sunrise Trail on Route 245. This community was founded ca. 1785 by Scottish immigrants who named it after their former home, Arisaig, on the west coast of Scotland. This was the site of the earliest settlement made in Antigonish County by Highland Scots. Today, those roots are recognized in the highways signs that name each community both in Gaelic and English.

Arisaig lighthouseIn Arisaig, signs direct you to a lighthouse at the end of a point. At the lighthouse, interpretive signs circle its base that tell stories of the area. Like the 17th century story of “Frenchman’s Barn” – when the crew of a French sailing ship thought a massive rock not far from shore was a building and ran aground.

This area is well-known in the province for its fossils. Interesting, eh? Arisaig rocks and fossils were deposited in a warm, shallow sea more than 200 million years – before dinosaurs (and this laptop) evolved! Many of the animals at Arisaig either lived attached to the sea floor or buried in the mud and silt below. There was not much life on land at that time, not even plants. Gosh, that would mean no chocolate either but who can live without chocolate anyway. Good thing I wasn’t around. Just sayin’.

Arisaig rocksThe 4 kilometres of coastline from McArras Brook to Arisaig Point, including Arisaig Provincial Park, exposes 47 million years of earth history. This is not much in geological time – the Earth itself is older than 4.5 billion years. (Sorry Earth, I know it’s a sensitive topic with you to talk about how old you are. Bad secret I guess.)

If you’re Arisaig on a clear night, look across the water and you’ll see the lights of PEI (30km across the Northumberland Straight). From that distance, they’d be “mini lights”…sorry, can’t help myself.

Check out these links:

Arisaig Facebook Page

Sunrise trail map

Wikipedia: Arisaig

Don’t hang up those skates!

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Just because we are taking off the winter tires and packing up the winter coat doesn’t mean we can’t still hit the ice.

For the past month, a friend and I have been skating at the Centennial Arena. From 9 p.m. – 11 p.m. for a $4 admission, you can skate 12 months of the year on Sunday nights. No helmets required.

Skating at Centennial ArenaMy skates are old, 23 years old to be exact. They are “figure skates”, for those who can do “figures” I suppose. I guess that explains why I could never really skate with them. My friend just bought a fancy pair, the kind that you turn a dial and the laces are tightened. Go figure.

It is here where you can you listen to Wilf Carter, Charlie Pride and Lady Gaga blaring from the same speakers. There is music to please all age groups in attendance. My friend thinks that the exact same music is playing from when she went there as a kid. “Really?” I said, as I clumsily laced up my rusty blades. Lady Gaga was in diapers when I bought them.

Skating at Centennial ArenaStepping out onto the ice was weird. So used to skating on a bumpy pond surface, it was wonderful and smooth at the arena. Everyone skates in the same direction for about 15 minutes, then switches to the other direction – you can hear people groan as they say “I skate better in the other direction”. The majority of people are just doing their best to stay upright. It’s a happy, fun atmosphere.

In the center ice area members and former members of skating clubs in Halifax look like graceful swans practicing their jumps and spins. It’s nice to watch them as you take a rest in the stands. They give figure skates their name.

Skating among the pack are a few people with yellow arm bands. I wondered if they were members of a singles club but I later learned that they were security. They are good and fast skaters too.

Once in awhile you’ll hear a yelp from someone who wiped out and then bashfully stands up, brushes themselves off and then starts again. It’s common. It’s perfectly okay. I know because every time I’ve gone, I’ve wiped out (except last time but we didn’t stay the entire 2 hours either). One time I wiped out just after the Zamboni cleaned the ice at the halfway mark. I was wearing grey leggings, not a good idea. I not only “advertised” that I wiped out but I was soggy the rest of the skate. The next week, I wore black.

See you on the ice…in July and August!

Here’s more info:

Centennial Arena is located in Halifax, 27 Vimy Ave.

Here are directions

For more information, call Jack at 490-4926

The Red Shoe Pub

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Red Shoe Pub entranceA month ago, my sister had her vacation and had every intention of going to The Red Shoe Pub but didn’t get there. I did the perfect “naa, naa” when I texted her to say that I was there (I know, I am a brat). It was the last day of our family vacation around Cape Breton and we had to put the brakes on while driving through Mabou, Inverness County. BTW, there should be a bumper sticker handed out at Cheticamp saying “I break for The Red Shoe Pub.”

Once inside, the place was busy, but then again, it was lunch time and we happened to nab the last four seats. This place is a mecca to The Rankin Family– their career and early family years. Mabou is where this musical family group were raised and is featured in their songs. One quickly realizes that this pub was designed for musical entertainment with a piano, Piano at The Red Shoe Pubspeakers and audio equipment along the middle wall of the establishment. Musical entertainment is every night of the week featuring local artists providing suppertime music and ceilidh’s.

While living in British Columbia, listening to The Rankin Family kept me connected to Nova Scotia. Their first self-titled CD (released in 1989) brought me happy memories of “back home”. I’m certain that a lot of east coasters living away can relate.

There is a large sign that reads “Beaton Building”, this original sign was part of the 150 year old building. After an extensive restoration, it was sold to Rankin sisters Raylene, Heather and Cookie and it’s been a popular spot ever since. At the back corner of the pub, I noticed an elderly local man wearing a green hat with a plastic grocery bag at his table. He sat alone. Suggesting to those who walked in the door as to where to sit. Nobody noticed him but I was fascinated watching his quiet gestures. It made me wonder who he was. An old family friend of the Rankin’s? A local who liked to people watch? I think people like him add flavour to a place such as this.

Red Shoe at The Red Shoe PubThere is an interesting story on how the pub got it’s name “The Red Shoe”. An adventurous shoemaker Angus D. MacEachern of Glendale, Cape Breton had stained his handmade shoes a bright crimson with Sherwin-Williams paint. Johnny Gillis of North East Mabou, came up with the name ‘Red Shoe’ as a tribute to Cape Breton fiddler Dan R. MacDonald who had contributed a lot to Cape Breton’s music culture. Do you know why shoes were painted red?

Enough about that. We actually went there to eat! The food was fantastic. Loved the Nova Scotia inspired menu and beer and wine selection. Particularly how the menu suggested wine pairings. I only wish we were there during dinner time, when there is live music.

If you go:

The Red Shoe Pub is a seasonal operation open from June 1st to mid-October.

Red Shoe Fan Club on Facebook

Skyline Trail – Cape Breton Highlands National Park

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Skyline Trail startEver see a TV commercial or magazine ad of Cape Breton and wonder, “where is that place?” Well, I found the place. It’s called the Skyline trail.

The trail is #7 on Parks Canada’s Cape Breton Highlands visitor map and judging by the packed parking lot at the trail entrance, this 9.2 km (5.7 mi) trail is a popular one.

Cabot Trail, Cape BretonSince it was 26C, we packed a lot of water for the hike. We stopped for a quick break to see a presentation on moose delivered by two Parks Canada interpreters. This info was helpful because we did encounter a moose on the trail, busy eating grass while hikers quietly watched and kept their distance. While driving up MacKenzie Mountain that morning, we also encountered a moose who was oblivious to the dozens of people with cameras.

As we were hiking along the relatively flat trail, once in awhile you’d get a blast of refreshing ocean air. You could listen to the vehicles climbing or descending nearby French Mountain (455 m).

Cabot Trail from SkyLine TrailOnce we reached the end, the landscape opened up and we were rewarded to a breathtaking panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean. The trail led to wooden stairs – we counted 278 steps to the lower observation platform. As we soaked in the view and were cooled by the ocean breeze, we took a lot of pictures and picked wild blueberries that were growing just a short arms-length away from the platform.

Unfortunately it was time to go and hike back to the car. Although the trail map said that hike was 2 – 3 hours round-trip, we hiked it in 1 1/2 hours.

Helpful links:

Link to all the trails in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park of Canada.

Skyline Trail description

Broad Cove Campground – Cape Breton Highlands

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It was 8:20 p.m. when we pulled into campsite #189. We were in Broad Cove and it was the first night of our three day tour of Cape Breton.

Cabot TrailMinutes earlier we entered the Cape Breton Highlands Park and paid our family rate (2 adults, 2 kids) of $19.60 / day at the ticket gate. After driving about five minutes, we arrived at the gate for Broad Cove campground where we were pleased that they had one campsite left but (to our kids disappointment) there was no fire pit.

The light was beginning to fade so we quickly set up camp and ate dinner. After quick showers, we crawled into our sleeping bags. No reason to stay up because there was no fire to watch- the kids made sure that we took note of this.

Somewhere between the woodpeckers and the crows my REM sleep was interrupted. I generally don’t mind crows but a nylon tent does not make a great sound buffer.

Fishing at Broad Cove BeachBefore packing up to leave we walked down the beach where the kids played in a brook that flowed into a beach. The beach had a couple broken up lobster traps that were left over from a storm. Nearby a man wearing waders fished for mackerel and trout from the beach.

My husband headed back to the campsite while the kids and I explored the brook and beach. When we returned, everything was packed up and we were ready to go. This was awesome and the kids and I planned this perfectly 😉

Broad Cove BeachNext stop? Many. It was the Cabot Trail and who knew what what around the corner.

See photos from our Cape Breton trip on Flickr

For more information:

Cape Breton Highlands National Park of Canada

Information on Broad Cove and other campsites in the park