Category Archives: nova scotia

Back to the Future at Fortress of Louisbourg

IMG_4224On a foggy day in Cape Breton, my family and I stepped back in time to the year 1744. Actually, we drove there – to Louisbourg. After parking the car we went to the Parks Canada info centre where we jumped on a bus that took us to the largest re-constructed 18th century town in North America. Our curiosity was piqued on the bus ride for what was beyond the fog and then the town slowly appeared into view.

At the gate, we were greeted by an armed soldier who questioned the intention of our visit. This playful interpreter asked us what was the purpose of our trip, if we were English or French, even if we were spies (I’ll never tell). Fortress LouisbourgI still think my daughter thought the soldier was serious.

Once on the other side of the gate of the fortress, it was clear that you could spend a day at this impressive site. Friendly costumed interpreters smiled for pictures or said hello as they walked by. They also welcomed onlookers to watch them do tasks such as making fishing nets.

In 1744, the fortress was an important seaport for France. A thriving fishing industry and trade made Louisbourg a stronghold in what is now Atlantic Canada. At that time the soldiers’ rations over four days were: 4 oz of salt fish, 4 oz of vegetables, and 6 pounds of bread. Fortress Louisbourg National Historic SiteThese men worked a 24 hour watch (usually without any sleep) and then had 48 hours off. During their free time they’d hunt or fish (probably for more food :)) As many of the soldiers were criminals, Louisbourg was a lot better than prison in France. To these men, life as a soldier was better than prison. At least as soldier they had a roof over their head and food to eat. If they stepped out of line, they had to sit on a wooden horse with their hands tied and sacks tied to their legs. This was a form of humiliation because they’d be in clear view of everyone.

By 1760, Louisbourg lay in English hands and its fortification, destroyed. Fortunately, the French were meticulous record keepers because when the fortress was being re-constructed beginning in the 1960’s, there were 750,000 documents to sift through. The re-construction was a massive undertaking which included archeological digs etc to re-build everything as a carbon-copy of the original. Cape Breton miners were enlisted in the project for their valuable skills.

IMG_4243It was time well spent in this 18th century town. By late afternoon we had to jump into the car and set up camp in Broad Cove but we all said we’d like to go visit again someday.

See more pictures of Fortress of Louisbourg on Flickr.

Related links:
Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site
The Louisbourg Institute of / L’ Institut de Louisbourg de Cape Breton University
Destination Cape Breton
Novascotia.com History comes alive

How to pick mussels

Important!

Check before you dig! Make sure the area where you plan to harvest shellfish is open. When an area is officially “closed,” it is both illegal and unsafe to harvest shellfish from that area.

Check for shellfish harvesting closures.

————

There are many places along the coast of Nova Scotia to pick your very own mussels.

Growing up along the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia, picking mussels was one of my favourite pastimes. Some like to keep their mussel patches secret. One wouldn’t want to give away too good of a good thing right? So I’ll explain the “how to”, for now.

Blue mussels can be found in cold and warm waters all over the world, however many of them are found along the coast of Nova Scotia. They are a member of the clam family and are somewhat similar in appearance-except for the blue-black coloring.

Mussels can be picked at low tide. Unlike clams, they grow above the sand amongst seaweed around rocks. One can tell that mussels are in the area by noticing how many empty mussel sheets are lying around. If there are lots of empty shells, then walk to the waters edge, move aside the seaweed around the rocks, and have a look. There is no need to remove the seaweed, it generally stays where you want it to stay. Rocks can be slippery so be careful. If you notice a cluster of mussels, grab one and tug (they can attached themselves firmly to a rock).

In summer-time, mussels’ capacity to filter small particles makes them accumulators of the deadly red tide organism, Gonyaulax. Please check with the Nova Scotia Department of Fisheries and Aquaculture before mussel picking to make sure your area is safe: aquaculture@gov.ns.ca. Don’t plan on pickin’ until you get the thumbs up!

Once picked, take your bounty home. Wash them well in the sink with cold water and gently tap two together at a time.  If they stay tightly closed, they are good to eat. Discard the ones that don’t close and stay open. Now, try this fabulous recipe.

The difference in colour of the meat has nothing to do with a difference in taste. I’m told that the orange meat is a mature female mussel, whilst the pale cream meat mussels are males (or immature females). Yummy.

Blue mussell photo is Courtesy of Sean MacNeill.

Here’s a yummy Curry Cream Mussel recipe

A & K Lick-A-Chick

A&K Lick-A-ChickIn Bras D’Or (outside Sydney) is a restaurant called A&K Lick-A-Chick. After hearing about this place as the “best tasting fried chicken on the island”, we just had to stop in for a bite.

It was lunch time and judging by the number of people waiting in line, my husband and I knew we were in for a bit of a wait. We found a booth and with ticket stub in hand we passed the time listening to the locals, looking at the merchandise (taking note of the hats in individual plastic bags over the counter) and watching the traffic rush by. When our number was called, my husband and kids had to wait another 10 seconds while I took a picture of our delicious crispy chicken and fries. Then we ate like beasts from an episode of “Wild Kingdom.”

IMG_4198This place is such an icon that there are over 4300 fans on Facebook. A discussion item on the fan page asks “what is your favourite menu item” and it appears to be a toss-up between the 3 piece chicken dinner and the chicken fingers. A person named Sha wrote that “chickens don’t have fingers.”

After a satisfying lunch, we were back in the car and on our way to Louisbourg. Thinking that we should’ve drove across the street to Lick-A-Treat for an ice cream but, then again, we had one earlier that day in Baddeck.

Directions to A&K Lick-A-Chick.

See more pictures from our visit on Flickr

One year of The Right Coast Nova Scotia

Happy Anniversary!
It’s been one whole year since you were created. The name “The Right Coast” was how I described Nova Scotia in Cover Letters to identify that I was a “come from away” applicant. My sister-in-law came up with “the right coast” and it stuck.

I wasn’t really a “come from away” but your typical person who, after graduating university, moved out to the west coast to find work. It took 11 years to come home to the other coast.

So, as I re-discover Nova Scotia as a wife and mother a blog was born. You see, since the age of eight I’ve had a journal. Thus, moving to an online journal, is a natural progression. But this journal would be read by anyone and not hidden under the bed.

To celebrate one year of The Right Coast Nova Scotia, here are a few of my favourites:

My favourite posts:
Lavender Jelly was my very first and favourite post
Between a rock and a soft seat: Economy, Nova Scotia
Paradise, Nova Scotia: This was fun to write, after the sting of paying the speeding ticket wore off.

Most read by readers:
How to pick mussels: Yum!
Canada’s Best Smoked Salmon: Willy Krauch’s
Making Nautical Wreaths: Recently a reader asked where you could buy one, this stumped me. Anyone know?

Most comments from readers:
Melmerby Beach Provincial Park: A spring time visit got a lot of comments.
Destination Guy’s Frenchys
Everything you wanted to know about Nova Scotia

My favourite pictures:
Because I love taking pictures and have a tough time picking which 2 or 3 go into a blog post, I’ve just started a Flickr account where you can see more. The pictures on Flickr are the more recent ones (July’09 onwards).

Most importantly, thank you for reading this blog and giving me ideas for new posts. Time is short for us all and I appreciate how you take a minute out of your day to read these posts.

I am excited to be a blogger for Nova Scotia’s tourism website: novascotia.com and The Right Coast NS is also on Twitter.

Thanks for reading!
Maria

Ferry Boat Tales

Ferry Tales 038A few weeks ago I met up with a girlfriend for lunch. She works in Dartmouth and I work in Halifax so I agreed to hop on the 12:15 ferry from Halifax to meet her at Alderney Landing in Dartmouth. I had read about a new summer program on the Metro Transit ferry system where actors tell tales of Halifax’s rich seafaring history.

Ferry Tales 030 So, on a Tuesday afternoon I paid $2.25 (made sure I got a transfer ticket for the trip back) and caught a Dartmouth-bound ferry. It was a beautiful sunny day so I sat on the top deck to soak in the view and the rays. Minutes after leaving dock, out jumps Jack Tar and his friends. Jumping from seat to seat and telling a story about a battle near Sambro, ferry passengers (once the surprise settled in) soon realized that they were in the middle of an reenactment.

Ferry Tales 027Here we were, in the middle of Halifax Harbour receiving an entertaining history lesson where the harbour itself has been the topic of text books, movies, conversation and so on. Another cool thing was traveling on the oldest salt water ferry service in North America.

It was perfectly choreographed and the length of the story was the exact length of the ferry ride. I didn’t want it to end but I knew my friend was waiting for me and I was hungry.

Ferry Boat Tales is presented by the Halifax Regional Municipality in association with Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Produced by Heritage Explorers and performed by DaPoPo Theatre.

If you go:
July-August – Tuesday to Saturday

To Dartmouth
(Halifax waterfront at the foot of George Street)

12:15 pm 2:15 pm 7:15 pm

To Halifax
(Dartmouth waterfront at Alderney Landing)
12:30 pm 2:30 pm 7:30 pm

Free with transit fare: $2.25 Adult; $1.50 Senior/Child

See more pictures on The Right Coast Nova Scotia’s new Flickr account.

The Whirlygig Factory

Whirligig.

Isn’t it fun to pronounce? Besides that, they are also fun to look at. When you are driving along the Lighthouse Route between Mahone Bay and Chester, you can’t help but notice the flurry of whirligig’s at The Whirlygig Factory. So many that they’ll make your head spin.

As I type, I can’t help but wonder why my spell check is picking up whirlygig with a “y”. I’ll come back to that later but first, what is a whirligig?

Wikipedia describes a whirligig as “wind-powered hanging art”- big contrast for what they were used for in ancient times as spinning torture devices. Now these lawn and garden ornaments is considered folk art. A visit to The Whirlygig Factory is where you can get your fix of these quirky and fun ornaments.

It was here where I met Barry and Kara Coutts, owners and creators everything whirligigish. They’ll custom make your piece or choose from many designs either on display or on their website.

When I arrived, Barry was the first person I met. Busy in his workshop, he was working on one of his “Tit-il-ating Mermaids”. These lovely ladies make you giggle at first and then you realize that these beauties are works of art. Found throughout the property reading in hammocks or playfully posing in a flower garden. It takes 400 feet of copper wire to make the hair, 5 hours to strip the wire and fashion it to the head. Their jewelery are fashioned from glass beads and sea shells.

The Turner Collection was inspired by Bunny & Pat Turner of Nova Scotia who wanted an old traditional whirligig reproduced. Barry was then motivated to create their own line of true “folk” whirlygigs, the one pictured here is “Musher”. Also part of the collection is “Harvey the Hunter”, “Wanda the Wash Lady”, “Charlie the Chopper”, “Peggy the Pump Lady” – all wind powered, colourful and entertaining.

As to why there is a difference between whirlygig and whirligig? A quick phone call to Kara said it’s merely for phonetic reasons because that’s how most people would spell it.

Helpful information:

Location of The Whirlygig Factory

The 10th Annual Whirligig & Weathervane Festival September 19 & 20, 2009 in Shelburne, NS

The South Shore region

The <a href="http://novascotia.com/en/home/planatrip/gettingaround/scenic_travelways/lighthouse_route/default.aspx"target="blank

“>Lighthouse Route

Swimming at Taylors Head Provincial Park in June

Taylor Head Provincial Park, Spry Bay, Nova ScotiaIt was a glorious Sunday morning.

It was the morning after a family gathering where we dined on lobster and potato salad. The sun was strong and the wind was weak. The black flies were either sleeping in or the bug spray was really working.

It was the perfect time to take a drive “down the head” – that’s Taylor Head Provincial Park. It’s a gem of a park along the Eastern Shore known for it’s white powdery sand and scenic hiking trails.

It’s also known for it’s cold water. In fact, I can only count on one hand how many times I swam in the water as a kid. One time I was told by a camp counselor that helicopters dropped ice cubes into the water. Why? I never asked. Perhaps my lips were shivering too much to ask.

As my father, sister, cousin, and friend where walking along the beach, my sister out of the blue said “I’m going in!” We said in shock and horror “where”, she said “there!”, pointing to the water. Before you could say “I dare you” she was running toward the water and jumping in. Clothes and all. You know that happened next? We proceeded to jump one by one into the water as my daughter looked on.

You know what? The water was nice. Then again, I was fully clothed.

Additional info:
Taylor Head Provincial Park brochure and directions

Pink Lady’s Slippers: To pick or not to pick

There is a trail behind our house and recently I discovered various patches of Lady’s Slippers. Actually, it was a woman taking a picture of these flowers that first caught my eye.

What are these puffed up flowers all about? Well, here are a few interesting facts:

– they are a wild orchid (Cypripedium acaule)
– also known as the moccasin flower
– can cause severe dermatitis if touched
– it’s the provincial flower of Prince Edward Island, since 1965
– it is the only flower with a lip (slipper)
– they prefer poor, acid soils (around pH 4-5) and do best in light to moderate shade.
– growth is slow, and it may take several years to flower
– they are fragile and do not transplant well, in fact, it’s discouraged
– should not be picked or used in floral arrangements

People tell me that information about Nova Scotia’s conservation of the Lady’s Slipper is available but I cannot seem to find anything. Send a comment if you know and I’ll happily post it.

HRM Bike Week 2009

I love my bike. Last summer I even did a tribute to “My new love”. The challenge of climbing a hill, the thrill of screaming down. Gearing down, gearing up.

Biking to work can be tricky. Halifax streets can sometimes be tough to maneuver but the reward of arriving to work on pedal power feels nice. Coffee tastes better.

So when I heard that HRM Bike Week 2009 is May 29th to June 7th, my pulse quickened like I was biking up Quinpool Road from the Rotary.

There are all kinds of interesting things planned. Like ride your bike to participating small businesses and receive discounts or board any Metro Transit Harbour Ferry or MetroLink bus (certain routes apply) with your bicycle and travel for free during Bike Week. There’s even a Family Picnic on the Commons that’s free from 12:00noon – 2:00pm for people and kids who enjoy cycling in Halifax and those interested in cycling as a family.

Here’s the full schedule for HRM Bike Week 2009.

Watch for the 2009 Edition of the HRM Bike Map – Bicycle Routes and Trails

See you on the street!

NS Eastern Shore boats and buoys

IMG_0006I grew up in a small fishing village along the eastern shore of Nova Scotia. There where four fishermen in the bay, Guy Boutilier, Jackie Borgel, Guy Power and Peter Connors. Just as the buds on the trees are a sign of spring, so was the launching of the fishing boats in the bay. Men from our community as well from the neighbouring bay were called to help launch the boats from their winter berths to slide down the wooden ramps into the water. Another season had begun.

As kids, we’d set the alarm for 4:30 a.m., head down to the government wharf to meet the fishing crew. My first time was when I was 12. It would also be my last time. I was never so sick in my life. An appreciation for the life of a fisherman was gained that morning as I thought to myself “this must be what it’s like to be near death”. Guy Power was a kind man who thought if he stopped the boat and let me jig mackerel awhile, that I might feel better. Nope.

Driving along the gravel road to Taylor Head Beach lobster buoys dotted the rocky coastline. Locals could tell which buoys belonged to whom by their colour and number.

Two fisherman have since passed away (the two “Guys”) and younger men have taken on the livelihood. Now there are only two boats and they exclusively lobster fish.